When my husband and I decided to take a 16 day vacation to the Yucatan peninsula in southern Mexico, I was ecstatic . We both wanted to go and explore as many Mayan ruins as we could as well as learn about the local culture. What we got in return was more then I ever imagined.
We knew for us to take a trip for that length of time, we would need to plan carefully. It took me six months to route our trip on Google Maps. I researched camping areas and hostels by looking online. I ended up finding the majority of our accommodations on
Booking.com. We both wanted to go the cheapest route we could. Neither of us are into the nightlife scene or interested in taking group tours, so I calculated how much it would cost and booked the cheapest flight I could find.
What I learned in this experience was more than any books or articles could have taught me. I knew I needed to refresh my very basic Spanish just for us to be able to get around. I started with an online class free through
Memrise.com. I'm glad I took it. It helped immensely. What it didn't prepare me for was in the Yucatan, Mayans speak Mayan. It's a completely different language than Spanish altogether. It's not uncommon for a Mayan to speak to you a little in Mayan, a little in Spanish, and a little in English.
Our trip consisted of us flying to Cancun, taking an ADO bus to Tulum, a colectivo to Coba, another colectivo to Valladolid, a second class bus to Chichen Itza and Merida and back to Valladolid, an ADO bus to Playa del Carmen, then an ADO back to the airport in Cancun. We originally had planned to rent a car, but I'm glad we didn't for our first trip. The drivers on Mexican highways are very fast and if you don't know the laws well, you might become subject to an accident. Here are the highlights and lowlights.
Cancun
There is so much to say about Cancun. For us it was the trip that almost didn't occur thanks to a 2 hour delay from New Orleans to Fort Lauderdale. It ended with us literally running through the airport as fast as we could. I should have known that was the setup for Samantha's Mexican Bootcamp Challenge.
Once we arrived in Cancun, we spent over an hour trying to find the cheapest route we could to get to downtown. I had a hostel in mind, but we ended up going to Hotel Allen on the recommendation of a taxi driver. It was nice, but we could have gone cheaper on both accounts. Hotel Allen was $25 USD a night and it cost us $44 for a taxi from the airport that broke down and they put us on a shuttle. It was a naïve error. What we should have done was got on a second class bus to downtown or bought an ADO ticket right outside the terminal for literally $8 USD each.
Whatever you do, make sure your bank knows your traveling out of the US. We were caught up in a whirlwind of trouble, because even though our bank knew we were traveling, they didn't set our debit card to work at foreign ATMs. Make sure they do that before you leave home.
We visited Market 28. You can actually take any city bus marked Market 28 straight to the plaza. We were only a few blocks away so we walked. It is huge. If you find yourself at a little shop called Market 28, I can assure you it is not the correct place. Market 28 is so big, a person could literally get lost.
If you go to Market 28, don't get sucked into buying overpriced tequila that is mostly flavoring. As a former bartender, I can assure you, real tequila is more than 12% per volume. There are plenty of other places in Mexico to get really great tequila a lot cheaper. At any of the tourists markets as I like to call them, bargain your price on anything, even jewelry. If you don't like the bottom line, walk away. I promise there will be no hard feelings.
Do not get suckered by anyone on silver. Check for that .925 stamp. Sometimes it's still fake. I used to be a jewelry buyer and it's common to find silver that has been stamped but is plated.
Do not fall for the rare new stone from "The Maya Cenotes". It is really Zultanite and it is from Turkey. It is remarkably beautiful and has color changing qualities. It is not however an $800 stone. If you really love a piece, by all means buy it, but just keep acting like your going to walk until they give you the real bottom dollar.
We just so happened to be in Cancun on September 16th, which is Mexican Independence day. There was a celebration at a local park with lots of food vendors. In the US if you go to a fair, you will pay outrageous amounts for a funnel cake, in Mexico it's like an all you can eat smorgasbord. I cannot emphasize enough how cheap it is to eat the street food in Mexico and how much better it is than a sit down restaurant.
While in Cancun we took a city bus that cost us about $1 each to el Museo Maya where we saw lots of Mayan artifacts and saw the ruins of San Miguelito. They are small, but they are interesting to learn about. The cost for Museo Maya was $4 USD.
We took another city bus down the road to the El Rey ruins where the beauty of this small site literally sucks you in. The cost is $3 USD. This is where I realized most places in Mexico don't have toilet paper in their stalls and a lot don't even have toilet seats. If you're female be prepared to pop a squat even in the bathrooms.
There are lots of iguanas that seem to be guarding the ancient site. They are everywhere. I felt the first burn of my feet blistering, so I took off my shoes and "earthed" through most of the site. Most of El Rey is foundations, but it's beautiful just the same.
After walking all over Cancun for three days my feet were crying for mercy, I popped my blisters and we caught the ADO to Tulum.
Tulum
When you first reach Tulum, you immediately realize it's a slower pace than Cancun. We found a small taquetera and ate some very fine pork tacos for under $10 and that included our drinks. We walked around a bit before we caught a Taxi to the Tulum ruins.
The cost to get in Tulum is around $4.50 USD. It is a bit of a hike from the gate so be prepared. My blisters were only getting worse, but I trekked on. At the bigger sites, you will be bombarded by guides that want to give you a tour. We opted to not do any due to funding, but I'm sure they are interesting. If you get in earshot of a tour group, you can get the same education without spending any money.
When you first see the ruins that overlook the Carribean sea, it literally takes your breath away.
The structures are everywhere. There is a small beach on the site, but it was closed because of sea turtle nests. We were informed that the public beach was on a walking path to the right of the entrance.
We walked back to the market area where there is a store that had beer for $1 USD. After such a long trekk, we indulged ourselves before making our way to our hostel. I do not however recommend eating the food there. It's way overpriced and not very good quality.
I saw a hostel at the end of the road on the way in. We walked on down and booked a private room for $20 a night. Bike rentals and breakfast was included. They had dorm rooms available for $10 a night.
We checked in, cooled off for a while, and then took a pair of bikes down to the beach. We had to park and lock the bikes around halfway and walk the rest of the way in, but it beat walking the full 3km.
When we got to the beach it was around 5:30pm. The last snorking trip of the day was about to leave and the salesman said he would give us a deal if we took the last two spots. On a whim, we jumped at the chance to snorkel the carribean sea and reefs. It was $35 USD for both of us and that included the equipment. I recommend trying to get those last minute boats as the salesman are literally in a position to bargain.
If you've never snorkeled or dived a reef, you need to add it to your to do list on your next trip. I was even fortunate enough to see a sea turtle swimming by.
We spent the rest of our time at the beach enjoying the sunset and sitting until it was time to walk back.
If you visit Tulum make sure you have a good mosquito repellent, the natural biodegradable kind they expect you to have at the cenotes, does not work in Tulum. They have giant flying pterodactyl skeeters.
Coba
After having an amazing breakfast at the hostel of a ham and cheese omelet with fruit, we caught an ADO to Coba. The cost for Coba is quite reasonable only $4USD each. There are over six kilometers of ruins that have been excavated. There are many more that have never been touched.
Climbing Nohuch Mul at the Coba ruins was the highlight. With full backpacks and 92° heat, it was a challenge for a hefty non-athletic girl like myself, but I pushed myself until I got to the top of the 120 steps and afterwards I felt like Rocky Balboa on the top of the steps of the Philadelphia Library. It is such a feeling of empowerment and accomplishment to stand atop the tallest Mayan ruin in Mexico and peer out over the jungle. Only Tikal in Guatemala is taller.
Coba is a place where you can really appreciate the Mayan culture. The locals speak Mayan and will be more than happy to teach you a few phrases. Everyone we met in Coba was welcoming. We ate at a little restaurant going out of the ruins and a little elderly Mayan woman sold us some very delicious honey and pollen. Afterwards we walked up to the main road in Coba and caught a colectivo to our next location.
Valladolid
Valladolid was by far the crescendo of our entire trip. We enjoyed it so much we actually stayed in the town twice. When we first stepped out of the taxi, we were immediately submerged into a dreamy world of old style Spanish charm. We were dropped at the town center where the square is located. It is adorned with benches that encircle a large fountain and has concrete chairs that face each other giving a personal feel to the conversations between two people.
Immediately a person notices the architecture and how much slower a pace everything seems to be in Valladolid. The Catedral de San Gervasio Catholic church is the first building that catches your attention. It is quite breathtaking.
In the afternoon and evening, the town comes to life as shops open their doors and the square brims over with people and their children. It's a good place to find a sweet treat if you are in the mind for one as there are vendors in their rolling carts selling marquesitas and the like.
We had nothing booked when we reached Valladolid. I literally booked our room as we were walking toward it. The name of the first hostel was Hotel Gayser. We were able to get a private room for $20 a night. It had a shared kitchen and the bathrooms were very nice. It reminded me some what of a really nice college dorm and living area.
The second hostel we stayed in during our first trip was Refugio Pecadores.
It was a nice hostel and breakfast was included, but we missed it both mornings as we had some early morning rendezvous with a few ruins. The only downside was we had no air conditioner, but for $15 USD a night no one was complaining. We had windows that opened on both sides of our room allowing for a nice breeze.
During a stay in Valladolid a person must see the natural cenotes. There are several in the area.We decided to take a walk to Cenote Zaci. The cost is around $2 USD. The cenote is beautiful. You can swim or jump from rope that swings from the overhangs.
We walked to a local market and caught a taxi to X'kopek Bee Park. It is free to just look around. It is such a hidden gem that the taxi driver had no idea how to get there and had to ask around. If that occurs, just show the street on Google maps to them and they will get you where you need to go.
They have some of the best honey you will ever taste. The honey from the local bees is held in regard as a medicinal honey. It's known for healing all kinds of sickness including pink eye.
We had planned our trip around our fifth anniversary, but it also happened to coincide with fall equinox. This is important as the main pyramid at Chichen Itza has a unique ability during the equinoxes to simulate a snake descending down the staircase. We knew we need to see this important event, but first we took a trip to Ek Balam by colectivo and climbed the main temple. The price to get in to Ek Balam is $3.75 USD. We sat at the top for a few minutes and then exchanged new wedding rings with a few words. It was a very nice way to celebrate our anniversary.
The ruins of Ek Balam have a different feel than the other sites we had visited. There are lots of buildings on the site that have never been excavated and a few that the jungle has reclaimed completely.
On the site of the ruins and 2 kilometers away is the cenote X' Canche. The cost to get in is $3 USD that you buy from a small hut at the beginning of the road. You will hand your ticket to a man at a table and then take a shower to get off any chemicals that might contaminate the cenote. You can rent a locker for $2 USD or your personal items.
The water itself is very refreshing. The cenotes are said to have healing properties and no joke the morning after swimming in them, my blistered feet were almost completely healed. The tarantula we encountered was in a hole in a rock, but he posed nicely for the camera.
We took a colectivo back to town and spent the rest of our evening in the town square. We discussed how we could spend the rest of our lives sitting on those benches in the evening.
Chichen Itza
I was excited about going to Chichen Itza as it is one of the Seven Wonders of the World. We took a second class Oriente bus to the Ruins. We arrived at around nine in the morning. Since it was the day of the equinox, the vendors were there early. There are a lot of vendors at Chichen Itza. It is a really great place to bargain for souvenirs. If you bargain just right, you can get some really nice things for really cheap. I do recommend waiting until later in the day to buy anything as the salespeople will be more relaxed to bargain.
Chichen Itza is by far the most expensive of the ruins. With an entrance fee of $15 USD and a locker fee of $5 USD it quickly adds up.
The place is huge. It takes a while to walk through all of it. We spent all day marveling and then it was time for Kulculcan, the snake to make the descent down the side of El Castillo, the grand pyramid. Alas, we only saw the first part of the descent and then the clouds covered the sun. Nature had other plans.
I admit I was a little disappointed, but the experience was worth it. I would like to try to make the trip again at another equinox. We took the second class bus from there to Merida.
Merida
Merida is the capital of the Yucatan state in Mexico. It puts a person in mind of Valladolid, except on a grander scale. Merida also has a town square that has quaint little seats and benches that make people want to talk to each other. It is much faster paced outside of the square. At first I wasn't sure I was going to like Merida as I had grown quite fond of the slow pace of Valladolid. Merida grew on me rather quickly. The architecture is a mix of Colonial Spanish and Mexican stonework.
Our first choice of hostel was Hotel el Arca. It's a motel style hotel that had super clean rooms and an all night check in with some sandwiches in a cooler and drinks available all night. They do lock the gate at night, but if you need to leave, the clerk will let you out. For a mere $14 USD a night, it was a steal.
One of the highlights of Merida is Mercado Lucas de Galvéz. It is a large farmers market with plenty of fresh fruits and spices. Walking through it alone makes a person want to try everything you see. There are plenty of papayas, mangoes, bananas, and coconuts. There are even taqueterias to sit and eat a bite if your hungry and enjoy fresh juegos.
Getting around Merida means either walking, taking a taxi, or a city bus. We mostly walked out of curiosity for what was around the next corner, like what type of architecture we might encounter. There are many museums in Merida. Right around the town center you can learn about Mayan history, the Spanish conquest, and see plenty of art. Just walk around and you will find plenty.
My first impression of Playa del Carmen was not a very good one. It is a larger town that was originally a hangout for hippies in the sixties. It has since become a very commercialized tourist trap. What did eventually start drawing me in was all the art. It is everywhere.
The most popular thing in Playa del Carmen is Fifth Avenue. It is almost like an outside mall with shops and bars that sell overpriced alcohol and tasteless overpriced food. After several hours of hanging in this area, I was missing the simplicity of Valladolid. As the cruise ship tourists flood into Playa, you see more Americans. You almost feel sad for their thinking what their idea of Mexico is.
The famous Portal Maya Arch is a wonderful art piece on the Riviera Maya in Playa. At certain times in the afternoon, there is a magnificent dance with ceremonial Mayan dancers. It was nice to watch.
I will say that the two hostels we stayed in while in Playa del Carmen were the best we had the entire trip. Casa 244 and Casa Seloa were some of the cleanest rooms I have ever stayed in anywhere. If we ever return to Playa we will definitely stay at Casa Seloa. The staff were great. I highly recommend it to anyone going to Playa del Carmen. Neither place was over $15 USD per night.
I saw on our map that there was a park across from our block across from Casa Seloa. As we were waiting to check in, we bided time at Ceiba Park. Nothing can prepare you for its beauty. It is like a mini jungle inside an urban setting. I wish we had parks like that back home. The lush tropical fauna was a cool oasis to kill the time. Inside the park is a playground and an education center. There is also a snack bar to get cold drinks. The bathrooms were clean and had toilet paper! It made me want to visit Playa with my kids, just to take them to the park.
Cheap food is easy to find in Playa del Carmen if a person knows where to look. We found a little outdoor place on Benito Juarez Avenue that had some excellent Pastor Tacos. Pastor is specific to the Yucatan. It does have a kick as it is marinated in blood orange juice and habeneros.
Cozumel
While we were staying in Playa del Carmen, we took a day and got ferry tickets over to Cozumel. The ferry itself is cheap if your just wanting to go over and shop or go the beach. We decided to splurge and rented a Jeep for the day because we wanted to explore the entire island. We could have rented a scooter for half of what the jeep cost, but I didn't like the idea of being on any type of motorcycle in Mexican traffic.
Make sure you get the ferry tickets close to the ferry port not from a guy off of the street. The tickets are about $8 USD each, round trip.You can rent a scooter or jeep directly from the ticket office. Our Jeep was $80 USD plus $25 insurance. You will need a credit card, but can pay for the rental in pesos. If you get a jeep, they are manual not automatic.That wasn't a problem for my husband and myself as we both have owned manual shift vehicles before, but for some people that might be an issue.
Our first stop was San Gervasio Ruins. The ruins are small compared to some of the larger ones we saw, but they are quite historical as most Mayan women made the pilgrimage to San Gervasio at least once in their lives. The ruins are a place of worship to the moon goddess of fertility and childbirth Ix Chel. The grounds are well shaded, so bring mosquito repellent. The cost of the ruins were $4 USDeach. I apologize for no pictures of the ruins. My SD card got fried.
After the ruins we drove over to the eastern side of the island where we enjoyed some sun bathing and drinks. Cozumel's beaches are made out or coral, so make sure to wear shoes or water socks. There is sand, but most of the natural beaches are rocky.
We drove the rest of the way around the island and then re-boarded the ferry back over to Playa. The next day we caught the ADO bus straight to Cancun Airport and came home.
****
One question I kept asking myself on this amazing journey was could we have done it cheaper. That answer in hindsight was yes. There were things we picked up as time went on, that had we known them up front, it would have made the trip easier and we would have done even more.
If you are the type of person who likes super clean rooms, with all inclusive resort stays or you would rather pay someone to do the work for you, backpacking the Yucatan will not be your cup of tea. There are spiders, mosquitos, and scorpions in Mexico. If your not the kind of person to deal with bugs, skip a trip like this and call your travel agent. If your the kind of person who has a sense of adventure and you cannot get enough of different cultures, don't hesitate! Start planning and go for it.
When someone says to me, "We got such a good deal on our room. We only paid $150 per night!", I literally choke. I have never paid that much for a room anywhere, unless I was splitting the cost with four other people.
Hostels are great. They can range from $10-$40 USD per night, which is much cheaper than a hotel. We stayed in private hostel rooms that cost us $15-$25 per night. We could have saved money by staying in the dorm type and saved $5-$10 per night, but I like my privacy, so we opted for the pricier private rooms. Some have air conditioning and some don't. Most places tell you when booking if it's available. Don't expect it.
The busses are cheap and even the second class busses are pretty nice. ADO has an app, but it only shows first class ticket prices. First class is very comfortable. Most of the time there is a movie playing. It might be in Spanish, but it's fun to make up what they are saying if you don't understand Spanish. Check the prices at the station. For us it was cheaper to ride first class from Valladolid to Playa del Carmen than it would have been to ride second class with a bunch of stops.
- Make sure you have plenty of pesos. Everything is cheaper if you pay in pesos and there are a lot of people who do not have access to card readers.
One thing about Mexico is everywhere we visited had its own charm. The sights, the smells. You want to drink it up and take it all in. The bigger cities were faster paced than the smaller towns, but it is still part of what makes the Yucatan a unique place to visit. I fell in love with Mexico. I cannot wait to go back.
Have you been to the Yucatan? What was your favorite places and things?
